Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Wet rock, dry glaciers

Mt Temple Scramble and surrounding peaks

Climbing Conditions

We climbed Mt Temple via the SW Face scramble yesterday. A few spots, including the crux pitch, were wet from the afternoon and evening rain storms we have been having lately.

I was pleasantly surprised to see firm snow patches near and on the summit (which were all avoidable). The upper East Ridge was snow covered. When we got back to Moraine Lake the lower East Ridge was mostly dry and this route looks to be in prime shape.

The surrounding peaks including glaciers and couloirs are all quite dry and not appealing. I think access to the W Ridge of Fay would be problematic.

There seem to be a few transport companies offering early morning access to Moraine Lake. We booked this trip months ago though and booking a shuttle for a climbing trip based on last minute conditions seems to be impossible as all shuttles are jammed tight with sunrisers. This shows as we we seemed to be the only early access climbers in the entire valley, which is unfortunate for this world class venue for rock and mountain climbs.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.