July 12-14th a guest and I approached Mt Robson via the Patterson Spur, with hopes of an attempt on the summit via the Kain Face if we got a good enough freeze. I had a hard time finding a good place to cross the bergschrund to get down onto the glacier on the way to The Dome, keeping in mind we would have to retrace our steps in a couple of days. With very wet snow providing little resistance up to the knees, winds gusting 60kph, occasional rain/hail, and little hope of a good enough freeze, we decided to turn around and find something else to do. The bergschrund appeared to be open and overhanging all the way up to the Patterson Couloir. I'm sure if you tried hard enough with a good freeze you could make something work, but I'm not very good at climbing overhanging schmoo.

Alex Geary
Altus Mountain Guides