Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Mt Athabasca North Face

Columbia Icefields

Climbing Conditions

-1C at the car (0730) this morning. Sebastian and I found a supportive surface crust to 2900m, after which we broke boot-top trail to ~3100m (slightly up the face). Once on the North face there were screws available with some rests. Good climbing conditions with adequate ice on the upper rock band. We descended the ramp route, which just came into the sun around 1300hrs. The crevasses below the ramp are well filled in currently (see photo).

Of note, we saw some exceedingly large cornices on Mt Andromeda, especially over the "practice" gullies. They seemed somewhat smaller over Andromeda Strain, but YMMV. Photo attached. We saw several loose-wet avalanches in predictable spots (steep, rocky terrain in the sun). By 1400, a sz 1.5 had ran at the glacier toe of the route to the Boundary-Athabasca col.

Had this not been our plan B, we would have certainly enjoyed bringing our skis along ;) you'd be able to ski starting at the Brewster bus exchange (with ski crampons or just hike up).

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.