Climbing Conditions

Guide Training Ice 2022

Rockies ice climbing

Climbing Conditions

Through the week, we climbed at the Junkyards, Haffner, Moonlight, Chantilly Falls, Louise Falls and SARs on Ice.

The course started at the beginning of a warming trend after the deep cold snap, with major west to southwest winds persisting from before the course through most of the week affecting treeline and alpine elevations. Minimal precip through the week, with most of it concentrated on the 11th and 12th. The peak temperatures were on Thursday the 14th, with highs across the zone of +4-7C.

The only notable avalanche occurrence from our field days was a loose dry size 0.5 off of the slopes above Louise Falls while one party was leading up to the cave behind the pillars. On the same day, we saw a size 2.5-3 below Mt Fairview in the Rockfall Wall rock climbing zone (details for both in separate MIN reports). We avoided many routes through the week that were exposed to overhead hazard given the avalanche problems present (loose dry, wind slab and deep persistent slabs). Check out the MIN report from Parks Canada for recent avalanche control on the Field climbs.

A thick eggshell layer was present on many climbs as a result of the long, deep cold snap. However, most of the ice was soft and plastic especially compared to previous weeks. Many low flow routes are not currently in shape, and others are in thinner state than in previous years.

Nick Baggaley, on behalf of the 2022 GTI candidates

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.