Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Mount Edziza near Iskut in northern British Columbia is Canada's largest volcano at 2,870 m. On a recent traverse, I found that climbing the summit now requires full alpine ice climbing gear. There used to be snow to the base of the summit rocks, but that has been replaced by 40 to 70 m of 50 degree water ice. A light ice axe and instep crampons will not do it.
I also tried a scree ramp on the S side of the summit ridge, but a steep apron of debris covered ice between the glacier and the rocks made that too risky.
Once the summit ridge is reached, it is a very loose low 5th grade scramble on shattered basalt.
The summit may be easier earlier in the season when there is still snow cover on the upper glaciers. However, the river crossings could be more difficult then and there would be more mosquitoes.
The trail from Buckley Lake to Eve Cone is in decent shape. The trail from the S end of the plateau down to Mowdade Lake is very muddy and poorly laid out. Some work has been done on it, but it is not a good trail.
Since there no longer is a float plane base at Tattogga Lake, one now has to fly with BC Yukon Air in Dease Lake. I found them good to work with.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.