Climbed Matier’s W Buttress with a couple of hardy clients in mixed weather and mixed conditions. Strong work Lisa and Sarah!

The route is snow free and generally high quality, other than loose rock on the first pitch. The description in McLane’s guide is accurate. The final crux 5.9 pitch had some wetness that was easy to climb around and the climbing is very high quality. The summit ridge was time consuming with isothermal snow but generally secure footing, other than the initial section of thin snow/ice over rock. Cornices are still a concern is spots however most have already fallen off.

With daytime warming we witnessed and heard rockfall, and cornicefall.

The descent (normal route) is almost entirely snow covered and again felt quite secure with plunge stepping or facing in. See photos

Glacier travel was straightforward with crevasses not showing yet, snow conditions were perfect for travel in the early morning.

We also climbed Vantage’s W ridge which was straightforward with a few firm snow patches to be avoided if possible. Glissading conditions were primo for the descent.

The area seems to be seeing less traffic due to the more difficult access caused by the landslide and lingering snow below tree line. The “trail” is difficult to find in the landslide section, and the old trail which still exists above the landslide can lead you into a nasty deadfall bushwhacking section if followed to the logging slash. The bridge across the creek by the highway washed out and the new bridge is more challenging, best to walk the 60m upstream and cross the winter bridge if wet or with tired legs and heavy packs.