Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Bugaboos

Bugaboos Aug 6-8th

Climbing Conditions

My family and I spent Aug 6-8th in the Bugaboos. There were very few groups on the August long weekend with only 4 tents at Applebee and a generally quiet Kain hut.

Travel in the Bugaboos is certainly getting more difficult as the heat and glacier melt continues. On the approach to the West Ridge of Pigeon we were turned around at a melted out snowbridge at 2900m on the Bugaboo glacier that made for an impassable crevasse/ bergshrund (see photo). Perhaps the fork of the glacier that goes under Marmolata may still give you access but I had heard that route was very challenging the week before due to large crevasses. All around the route options seem fairly limited but with so few people in the area it was still a worthy destination.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.