Climbing Conditions

5 photos

Athabasca N-Face Bypass Conditions - Pictures of Mt. Alberta, Diadem, and Confederation

Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Diadem, Mt. Alberta, Mt. Confederation

Climbing Conditions

Jasper Visitor Safety climbed Mt. Athabasca via the North Face Bypass route and descended the AA Col on May 30th 2023. The North Glacier was snow covered. We started early had a decent overnight freeze resulting in a melt-freeze crust that was supportive about 70% of the time. We used a rope for the glacier travel. The bergschrund below the Silverhorn was easily passed, likewise on the North Face. The climbing conditions on the North Face were good with a couple of centimeters of firm snow over ice. We mostly used ice screws for protection and anchors, but we also placed a couple of pickets.

The decent down the AA-Col was mostly on rock until just above the glacier. Luckily we were able to travel on a previous stamped in trail through the otherwise unsupportive slush on the glacier in the afternoon.

Attached are pictures of the AA-Col. Also attached from June 1st are pictures of the north face of Mt. Alberta, Mt. Diadem and Mt. Confederation.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.