Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Climbing Conditions

Our party summited Mt Fay via the centre ice bulge route July 13. Despite no overnight freeze on the 12th, travel on the glacier from the hut to below the face, was good. There is still some hang fire from cornices, threatening the lower part of the route. Large chunks of it have broken off over the last week, scouring the lower snow covered face, making travel quick and easy on firm snow with good picket placements for pro, until we reached the ice. We had scattered clouds, and cool winds from the sw on the morning of the 13th, keeping the solar input down and giving us a little bit of confidence that the remaining cornices would stay put. We minimized our exposure setting up belays in sheltered spots, and making quick time on the face.
We descended the west ridge route and snow on the face was knee deep and isothermal. We were happy to be down on the flats by 1030.
The snow from below the west ridge route to the top of the Perren varied from ankle deep to wet sloppy mid thigh trail breaking.

The Perren approach is in good shape.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

The ACMG is requesting your assistance with determining the future of the MCR! The survey will be open until August 31th, at which time we will take all constructive comments into consideration. Thanks! Read more