Hello,

Yesterday (Mar 2) I guided an ascent of Kemosabe in the Waiparous Valley area. The approach trail had previously been punched in which was nice. Thanks to those who broke trail. Pitch 1 was very wet, with soft easy ice but didn’t take screws well (crappy wet ice). Pitch 2 was wet on the RHS and dry on the LHS. Our line of ascent mostly followed the dry LHS which required lots of cleaning to get to good ice. You really had to take your time and work the pitch. The route gets morning sun which was nice given the very cold temps on the drive in. This was my first time on this route and from previous reports I’d say the route is in typical shape.

Enjoy!

Patrick Lindsay
Ridgeline Guiding Services