Todd Anthony-Malone and I guided a group up Boundary Peak yesterday. We had planned to climb Athabasca but winter-like temperatures, recent snowfalls, strong winds and poor visibility made us change objectives.

We approached Boundary Pk via the North Glacier and descended via the Boundary Glacier. There was 10-30 cm of recent storm snow on the lower glacier with one wind loaded convex roll having 1 meter of snow on it. The snow was showing wind slab properties yesterday. The wind had also created numerous soft bridges over open crevasses, we had a few people put a foot into slots and one person actually drop into one, requiring a quick drop loop rescue! The first time that I have had to implement a rope rescue system in 32 years of mountaineering.

Mt Athabasca looked like it had extensive wind effect and loading on the Ramp and Silverhorn routes. I would be concerned for wind slabs up there until warm temperatures settle the snow from the last week.