Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

North Face Bypass on Mt Athabasca, Columbia Icefield, June 22

As per previous reports from the area, travel and climbing conditions are good around the Columbia Icefield.
Air temp at 0400 in the parking lot was 5°C with light winds from the West. Snowline was encountered at 2550m and was 70-120cm on the glacier. Supportive travel on a 5cm crust from the overnight freeze with the occasional post hole. Sags in crevasses are apparent, probed suspect areas across the glacier to the base of the North face. The bergschrund was easily negotiated and firm snow gave good access to the North ridge. No ice was encountered. The traverse and gully were snow covered which made travel quick. Small cornices along ridgeline were avoidable. Fast travel on snow down to the AA Col and off the glacier. Snow became moist at 2800m by 1030.
Previous avalanche activity was observed up to Sz 1.5 from point releases on all aspects (mainly South and West) up to 3200m.
As snow amounts seem above average, in the alpine, for this time of year, use caution if descending snow slopes later in the afternoon. Best to be up and down early before the sun and daytime heating weakens the snowpack.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.