Hello,

Myself and Pat Lindsay guided 2 guests up the Japanese route on Mt Alberta over the long weekend. The route is in great shape with dry rock on the pitched climbing and on the ridge, we did not use crampons or ice axes. There was lots of available water on route from the last of the snow and ice melting out of the gully.

On decent we established 2 new rappel anchors low on the route, last 2 raps, which are more fall line/ climbers right of the gully, these are piton and tricam/nut anchors.

We bivied not far from the base of the technical climbing at approx. 3000m small bivi wall and just enough room for 4 people. Attached are pictures.

Have a great summer!

Jeff Bullock
Director of Operations
IFMGA/ACMG Certified Mountain Guide
Climbing | Skiing | Custom Mountain Adventures
www.alpineairadventures.com