Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Ice Conditions and New Anchors

Kitty Hawk Ice Climb

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Kitty Hawk on Friday Nov 23. The route has fully formed with dry blue ice through the bottom half of the climb. The crux pitch was pouring water, with no way to avoid getting wet. Only 15cm snow around the bottom of the route and very little snow in the basin above. Bunch of ice debris out the bottom from a dagger collapse or something similar. Unicorn is forming well but too wet to consider .

We added two new ring bolt anchors. One anchor on the climbers left hand side below the crux pitch. This previously had a old corroded hanger and a single newer expansion bolt about 4 feet apart. The second new anchor was placed at the top of the crux pitch on the climbers right hand side. With two 60 meter ropes we could rappel from the top of the crux pitch to the base of the main ice flow (base of Unicorn) in two rappels (ROPE STRETCHERS!) See attached photo, the red dots indicate new anchor locations (NOT A CURRENT CONDITIONS PHOTO).

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.