Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Ice and Glacier Conditions

Columbia Icefields, Mt Andromeda

Climbing Conditions

Travelled up over the North Buttress of Mt Andromeda before today's storm arrived. 10-40cm of snow from this fall overlies the neve or bare ice on the glaciers. Large crevasses were still obvious but ankle-biters and the odd body sized crevasse were sometimes well hidden.

Alpine ice is forming up in places but 'surprisingly' isn't necessarily as good as it looks. Still worth the adventure in many places. The earth gullies look like they would have been good. A-strain doesn't look formed, shooting gallery looked climbable but perhaps a bit scrappy?

Come noon the storm arrived. The snow has abated for now with ~10cm still being moved around by moderate to strong SW winds. Also of note is a sun crust underlying this new snow and certainly enough coverage on some features to be above threshold.

Attached are a few phone photos from yesterday and this AM. One day, I will get a proper camera. North Face of Andromeda; West Face of Andromeda; Shooting Gallery; Mckibbin Route on the West Buttress of Athabaska

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.