Lilla Molnar and I made the journey into Hydrophobia yesterday via the North Ghost approach. We were not able to finish the route due to a need for some medical attention on a deeply cut nose from falling ice!

The route is in good condition however it has seen little traffic so far this year and you can expect some sections of cleaning. The ice is very dry and featured.

The approach is in good condition as well with little to no snow. The few sections of deeper drifted snow where (thankfully) supportive and made for easy travel. Having done this approach a few times now I still don't feel like I've ever gone the 'right' way! We found ourselves traversing a bit too high on the way in and opted for a little bit lower elevation, flatter route on the way out. This traverse ended up being more or less level or slightly higher than the spot where the Sorcerer trail meets the Sorcerer drainage. Still a hearty bushwhack in spots.

Comparing Cryophobia to the guidebook photos, it also looks to be in great shape.

There had been a bear sighting in the area a few weeks ago and although we saw no sign of bears, we did stumble upon what appeared to be a dead wolf with nothing left but bones and fur as we were leaving the Hydro drainage and a fresh set of cougar tracks.

The drive to the North Ghost was relatively straightforward with a 'stock' Tacoma and a bit of route finding. That said, some of the ice shelves have become quite big on the river crossings and it looks as though people have been chopping them with tools to keep them reasonable.

It was windy but not overly so on the route by Ghost standards. All in all a classic Ghost adventure.

Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide

P.S If you recently climbed the route and are missing a quick-draw. Contact me and we'll find a way to get you reunited.