Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

I climbed the Silverhorn yday. We started at midnight. At that point there was not a refreeze on the glacier but the night was perfectly clear. We found dry glacier to just below the nunatak below the Silverhorn. The longitudinal large crevasses are still plugged here. The plugs are unsupportive. We skirted the size 3 avalanche debris from last week (Parks post) which has nicely filled in the large crevasses below the Silverhorn. Thanks to Jonny and whoever else has climbed the Horn recently. We had a supportive refreeze above the nunatuk with good steps for all but 30m at the second bergschrund. From the Silverhorn we could see deep tracks down the N Ramp. The snow was still supportive so we decided to poke in. The crust was supportive at 0830. By 0840 it was softening giving us even more supportive steps but still cohesive. I would expect the by 0900 the steps would have been failing and the slope back on its way to unsupportive. Monday this week we were hours late for N Vic so we turned around. Yday we nailed the timeline. Some days conditions don't change a lot. Right now it can come down to the minute. Having a Plan B if you don't like what you are getting into is very important. Traversing the size 3 debris to get off the Ramp was very eye opening. Be safe out there. Brent Peters Alpine Guide PeakStratagem.com

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.