Climbing Conditions

Climbing Conditions

Flew into Fury Gap on Aug. 3 with Mike King. Spent two short days breaking boot-top trail to the start of the ridge crest to the right of the standard Angel Glacier. North East aspects were loaded with an average of 40cms from the week long storm ending on Aug. 2nd, but were not reactive. Pioneered a new route on climbers right of the ridge crest to the Epaulette Glacier, avoiding further soft snow, on a surprisingly reasonable snow ramp. The summit tower had cleaned up in the days prior to Aug. 6th enough to make the level of icefall reasonable for an ascent. Descent by the standard Bravo Glacier in the early am made for hardpacked fast travel. Half-way between the Bravo Headwall (many fixed rappel anchors) and Rainy Knob a large serac band was passed on skiers far left, partly thanks to wands left by another party who had earlier abandoned their attempt.
An emergency cache including white gas has been left at the obvious bivi boulder at Fury Gap. Many thanks to Whitesaddle Air for continued excellent service.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.

The ACMG is requesting your assistance with determining the future of the MCR! The survey will be open until August 31th, at which time we will take all constructive comments into consideration. Thanks! Read more