Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

On March 20th we climbed Louise Falls and found great conditions with plastic ice all the way up. In order to avoid the heat of the day, we started early and got down to the base around 11am. As usual, the daggers above the cave were our main concerns, but we were able to climb right in the middle of the falls where the exposure was very limited.

As it is often the case at this time of the year, the pillar is quite below the suggested grade and the ice is very featured making it an enjoyable crux pitch. Nonetheless, there is at least one other variation to the crux that would make it more challenging. The line we took only had a short section of wet ice and with care, we were able to keep the rope dry. Throughout the ascent, we looked for instability and concerning fractures but found none. We were lucky to have good cloud cover and relatively calm conditions with temperatures around -3 Celsius.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.