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Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Late summer conditions prevail in Rogers Pass, with snow/ice faces shedding most of their snow. This being said, a cold front has moved through the region, depositing 5-10cm of snow as low as 2300m. This new snow shouldn't last long with the forecasted sun and warm temp's.

The approach to the Rogers/Swiss col has lost much of its winter snow and numerous large rocks were observed rumbling down in the morning (Aug 21). This is the typical approach to ascend Mt Rogers, as well as to start the Swiss Peak traverse from West to East. If an ascent of the face doesn't look appealing, a great alternative to salvage your day is the West to East traverse of Hermit Mtn.

The rockfall on the east side of Mt Sir Donald continues to rumble, with parties on the mountain expressing concern, thinking the mountain was falling apart. This rockfall on the E face does not affect the classic NW ridge route, though you will likely hear the noise as you get higher on the peak.

For interest sake, a photo of the south end of the Illecillewaet Neve has been attached. Folks that have been travelling in the area for many years are shocked at how thin the ice cap has become.

And for the one party a year that ventures into Glacier Circle to climb Mt Fox's East Ridge, be prepared for poor rock quality. It has been compared favourably to the NW ridge on Sir Donald, but sadly it is only the position, not the rock, that is similar to Sir Donald.

Enjoy the late summer mountaineering, once this storm passes through.

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.